Well apparently my insomnia followed me back to the states. I'm finally back on American time at least. The adjustment has been both easier and harder than I anticipated, thought I'm not foolish enough to think its complete. Here are some of the things I've noticed since being back.
1. American money is UGLY
2. The toilettes here use a little handle to flush, but in France it is a button on top of the tank that you push. I keep reaching for that darn button!
3. The first thing I noticed when I stepped off of the plane in Chicago; we are SO LOUD!!
4. The houses are much, much farther apart here. And its nice to have a lawn again.
5. Boys are still idiots. No offense.
I will try to type a more in-depth return blog at some point in time. In the meantime, I'm intending to open another blog for just general how life is going sort of stuff. I'll add the link on here, for any who are interested.
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
Stranded
Ooooookay. So I'm sitting here in Chicago O'Hare, waiting for the third plane I've tried to get. Instead of going to Des Moines, I'm now going to Kansas City. Initially my dad was going to drive out there, in the insane fog, to pick me up. I decided to go talk to the people at the gate (after having to leave the terminal, change my tickets, and go back through security again) to see about a flight from KC to DSM. As I was waiting in line I noticed a couple sitting there, the man was wearing a Drake shirt. Since my only other option was waiting until Sunday morning to catch a flight to Des Mopines, I decided to go for it. I walked over, asked if they were going to Des Moines, and am now hitching a ride with them from Kansas City to the Des Moines Airport, where my Dad is going to pick me up at insanely early hour. At least things have worked out. But so much for getting re-acclimated quickly.
Sunday, December 16, 2007
The Last Week
This is it. When I wake up tomorrow, I will have five days left here in France. I cannot even begin to describe the way that makes me feel. I cried tonight at dinner (those of you how know me well are saying "duh") because my host mother was talking about the students she has kept in touch with, and wanting to go visit them within the next couple of years, and how she wants me to be one of those students. She and her family have been so wonderful to me this semester, I will never forget their kindness. I really hope that we are able to stay in touch for a very long time.
Tuesday is the start of three days of fairly hardcore finals. Tuesday is both Atlantic World, which will be my hardest final, and Palestine, which will be one of my easier ones though I still need to study dates. Tuesday night my host mother is throwing me a birthday dinner with Ben, Alison, Derek and Aurelien, the French student who lives with us. I'm pretty excited for it. Then Wednesday I have my European Union final, that's another I'm not TOO worried about, I just need to remember the dates of everything and the names of all the treaties. I've also got Phonetics, which is going to be difficult. Derek and I are hopefully going to study for that some Tuesday night after dinner. Thursday's finals won't be bad at all, its a repeat of phonetics (though practical instead of theory) so hopefully I'll already know it all and can spend Wednesday saying goodbye. I'm not ready for that yet. And, haha, now I'm going to sit here and cry again. I have met the most amazing people this semester, and I can't even begin to imagine going back to things without them. The two I'm closest to by far are Derek and Alison, and I know we'll try to stay in touch but...they both live a LONG way away. LONG. There is so much more I want to put in right here, so much more I want to say, but I can't because if I do I'm going to start crying even more and that's not good. So. Moving on.
This weekend was....CRAZY. We celebrated Alison's 20th birthday, and I won't go into too much detail but Friday night...well Saturday morning it was 4:30 before I was getting into bed. Derek, Alison, Caitlin, Christine and I went out for crepes and gallettes and that was AMAZING. I think Caitlin's dessert was the best, caramel made with salted butter is a specialty here and it is fantastique. I had a few firsts, smelled like a disgusting bar, and had an amazing time. I can't get over this. I was so excited to go home, and two weeks ago that all changed and now...well its not that I don't want to go home, its more that I wish I could just take people with me...that or rearrange the map of the United States. I just realized that I use the .... rather excessively, don't I? Not really proper English. But again, I digress.
Yesterday I spent the morning shopping with Alison, I bought a very pretty green sweater because Derek had invited me to go to church with him and I had NOTHING to wear (if you speak Girl, you know that NOTHING is, of course, relative). So I bought a pretty green cardigan that has since then received (i before e except after c....can't spell in English anymore) compliments so I think it was a good choice. So we went shopping, then I was heading back and was going to take a nap as I had barely slept, when Derek called so I headed over to hang out with him for a bit. Went home, packed my bag up, then went to the bus stop to go to Alison's. The bus which........neeeever came. Ben showed up, and we eventually (after about 35 minutes) decided to walk the two blocks to the 21-23 line. As we were getting close, we saw a bus drive by. Ben took off running, me following semi-close behind (its hard in a backpack and slightly too large shoes!!) and he caught the bus...which then was WAY off of its normal route because of the Christmas parade downtown.
It all worked out, and though I walked a bit I was only about 45-50 minutes late for Alison's birthday dinner. It was her host parents and the two of us, and we had lobster. Yes, lobster. It was amazing. Then for dessert her mom brought out a tarte tatin, which is kind of an upside down apple tart, with 20 candles in it. Supposedly in France the number of candles left is the number of years you will get married in. We'll see how mine turns out on Tuesday. After dinner we hung out, talked about boys, piddled around the internet, and ended up crashing at around 11.
This morning I woke up at 9, showered, impressed Alison with my 2 minute hair drying skills (due more to my lack of hair than any sort of actual skill), put on my pretty new cardigan, fought with the left front part of my hair which did NOT want to curl properly, and generally got ready to meet the day. We went downstairs for a quick breakfast, came back up, and Derek called. I met him outside of Alison's apartment and we walked through the FREEEEEEEEEEzing cold to the reformed temple. It was absolutely amazing. They had their little pre-Christmas children's program, so the whole chapel was filled with tiny adorable French speaking persons who sang and gave little skits. They were SOOO cute. There were also several songs that we all sang, three that were recognizable, sung at home melodies with crazy French words. French church service is definitely a gymnastic exercise for your mind. And, as we're in France, we had wine and cookies instead of coffee and donuts at the end of the service. Afterwards Derek and I went to his home, where his host mother had made us what was pretty much Thanksgiving dinner. Turkey, mashed potatoes, and Derek's real mom's stuffing recipe (gah can't spell that one either!) which has mushrooms in it...a first for me, but quite good. It was all amazing. Then for dessert she brought out a bouche de noel, which is a traditional French Christmastime dessert. They all told me happy birthday, which was sweet. Oh, and by they I mean Francoise, Derek's host mom, plus Fie (sorry on the spelling!) the Chinese student who lived with them this semester, and the new student who will be there next term. After dinner Derek and I went and hung out in his room for awhile, then I came home and had dinner with my host mom, which I discussed at the beginning of all of this. So, I've come round circle, and have enjoyed not studying. It is SO hard for me to concentrate today, though I know exactly why. See you all in a few days!!
Tuesday is the start of three days of fairly hardcore finals. Tuesday is both Atlantic World, which will be my hardest final, and Palestine, which will be one of my easier ones though I still need to study dates. Tuesday night my host mother is throwing me a birthday dinner with Ben, Alison, Derek and Aurelien, the French student who lives with us. I'm pretty excited for it. Then Wednesday I have my European Union final, that's another I'm not TOO worried about, I just need to remember the dates of everything and the names of all the treaties. I've also got Phonetics, which is going to be difficult. Derek and I are hopefully going to study for that some Tuesday night after dinner. Thursday's finals won't be bad at all, its a repeat of phonetics (though practical instead of theory) so hopefully I'll already know it all and can spend Wednesday saying goodbye. I'm not ready for that yet. And, haha, now I'm going to sit here and cry again. I have met the most amazing people this semester, and I can't even begin to imagine going back to things without them. The two I'm closest to by far are Derek and Alison, and I know we'll try to stay in touch but...they both live a LONG way away. LONG. There is so much more I want to put in right here, so much more I want to say, but I can't because if I do I'm going to start crying even more and that's not good. So. Moving on.
This weekend was....CRAZY. We celebrated Alison's 20th birthday, and I won't go into too much detail but Friday night...well Saturday morning it was 4:30 before I was getting into bed. Derek, Alison, Caitlin, Christine and I went out for crepes and gallettes and that was AMAZING. I think Caitlin's dessert was the best, caramel made with salted butter is a specialty here and it is fantastique. I had a few firsts, smelled like a disgusting bar, and had an amazing time. I can't get over this. I was so excited to go home, and two weeks ago that all changed and now...well its not that I don't want to go home, its more that I wish I could just take people with me...that or rearrange the map of the United States. I just realized that I use the .... rather excessively, don't I? Not really proper English. But again, I digress.
Yesterday I spent the morning shopping with Alison, I bought a very pretty green sweater because Derek had invited me to go to church with him and I had NOTHING to wear (if you speak Girl, you know that NOTHING is, of course, relative). So I bought a pretty green cardigan that has since then received (i before e except after c....can't spell in English anymore) compliments so I think it was a good choice. So we went shopping, then I was heading back and was going to take a nap as I had barely slept, when Derek called so I headed over to hang out with him for a bit. Went home, packed my bag up, then went to the bus stop to go to Alison's. The bus which........neeeever came. Ben showed up, and we eventually (after about 35 minutes) decided to walk the two blocks to the 21-23 line. As we were getting close, we saw a bus drive by. Ben took off running, me following semi-close behind (its hard in a backpack and slightly too large shoes!!) and he caught the bus...which then was WAY off of its normal route because of the Christmas parade downtown.
It all worked out, and though I walked a bit I was only about 45-50 minutes late for Alison's birthday dinner. It was her host parents and the two of us, and we had lobster. Yes, lobster. It was amazing. Then for dessert her mom brought out a tarte tatin, which is kind of an upside down apple tart, with 20 candles in it. Supposedly in France the number of candles left is the number of years you will get married in. We'll see how mine turns out on Tuesday. After dinner we hung out, talked about boys, piddled around the internet, and ended up crashing at around 11.
This morning I woke up at 9, showered, impressed Alison with my 2 minute hair drying skills (due more to my lack of hair than any sort of actual skill), put on my pretty new cardigan, fought with the left front part of my hair which did NOT want to curl properly, and generally got ready to meet the day. We went downstairs for a quick breakfast, came back up, and Derek called. I met him outside of Alison's apartment and we walked through the FREEEEEEEEEEzing cold to the reformed temple. It was absolutely amazing. They had their little pre-Christmas children's program, so the whole chapel was filled with tiny adorable French speaking persons who sang and gave little skits. They were SOOO cute. There were also several songs that we all sang, three that were recognizable, sung at home melodies with crazy French words. French church service is definitely a gymnastic exercise for your mind. And, as we're in France, we had wine and cookies instead of coffee and donuts at the end of the service. Afterwards Derek and I went to his home, where his host mother had made us what was pretty much Thanksgiving dinner. Turkey, mashed potatoes, and Derek's real mom's stuffing recipe (gah can't spell that one either!) which has mushrooms in it...a first for me, but quite good. It was all amazing. Then for dessert she brought out a bouche de noel, which is a traditional French Christmastime dessert. They all told me happy birthday, which was sweet. Oh, and by they I mean Francoise, Derek's host mom, plus Fie (sorry on the spelling!) the Chinese student who lived with them this semester, and the new student who will be there next term. After dinner Derek and I went and hung out in his room for awhile, then I came home and had dinner with my host mom, which I discussed at the beginning of all of this. So, I've come round circle, and have enjoyed not studying. It is SO hard for me to concentrate today, though I know exactly why. See you all in a few days!!
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Yes and No
Am I ready to go home? See the title. On one hand, I've been kind of ready most of the semester. I've always known, but know more so now just how special Iowa is to me. The people, the things, the atmosphere. I've missed my family, my friends, my pets, my school, the food, and even the weather. I'm ready to be around familiar things and people.
But at the same time. There are people here...my host family, Alison, Derek, and many many many others that I, as of right now, can't imagine not seeing on a daily basis. My host mom was just gone for three days at a funeral and I definitely missed her. And nine days from now, I say goodbye for good. And yes, of course we say we'll write and email, but for how long?
The reason I haven't blogged in so long, and I apologize for that, is that I am afraid if I start thinking about all of this too hard I'm going to fall to pieces! I have nine days left with these amazing people, and I've got finals on four of them. Friday is our grammar final, then that night we are going to our fancy birthday dinner for Alison, Caitlin and I. Saturday at least Alison, Caitlin, Christine and I are going to Atlantis, a giant shopping center outside of Nantes with a Jules Verne themed carousel. Sunday and Monday I'm studying, then Tuesday is my birthday and the rest of my finals! I've got both my Palestine and my Atlantic World (read HARDEST) finals, then Wednesday is European Union and practical Phonetics. Thursday I have both my phonetics lab and conversation finals, and then I'm done. Friday morning 8:00 I'm on the train to Paris, then the airplane back to the states.
Today we had a "going back" session with Madame Rouchet, basically her telling us its not going to be as easy as we think. She tried to reinforce that we HAVE changed while we've been here, a lot, even if we don't feel like it. When I'm not busy studying for finals, I will dive into this topic for all of you lovely people to read.
Since my visit to Normandy, life has been both eventful and monotonous. I turned in papers in three different classes (two of them I got back yesterday and I ROCKED THEM!!!) and I also had a midterm (which I definitely did NOT rock).
Last Tuesday I got hit really hard by the cold that's been going around and spent the day in bed with a pillow over my head. Friday we had a guided tour of the Musee Dobree, the city's museum. It was very, very interesting, our guide was wonderful and talked a lot about the 18th century. We were in a room with examples of jewelry when all of the sudden Aisha fell, literally right in front of me. Her pulse and pupils seemed okay, we took her insanely heavy backpack off of her and walked/carried her to a chair. The rest of the group moved on, but I ended up staying with her so she wasn't by herself. The most impressive thing about it is that she didn't stop speaking French, at all. I couldn't form a coherent sentence I was so shaken, and she was talking to the doctor in fluid French. I found out this morning that she was told by a doctor she went ot this weekend that she has a blood condition, if she gets too warm (it was hot in the museum and she was still wearing her coat) that her blood pressure drops, and well we saw the result.
Friday night I completely lost my voice, but went to the football (soccer) match with Derek and Alison and it was AMAZING. Go figure, I actually like soccer. The match was a ton of fun, even though I nobody could understand anything I said. Saturday I had planned to do a solo visit of the chateau and then to finish up my Christmas shopping. What I didn't realize is that Saturday morning came with pounding rain and winds of up to 115 km/hour. It was insane. I went to the castle, soaking wet, couldn't
speak at all still, and about halfway through started feeling really just awful. I kind of skimmed through the rest of the museum and then just went home.
The rest of the weekend and most of this week has been getting ready for finals. Last night was the play that both Alison and Derek are in , so we went across town last night after conversation club to watch them. They did such a good job, especially with a director of whom I heard many a horror story. Caitlin and I left together, and since we couldn't exactly find my bus stop, we walked to the tram. It was after 11, so the night bus was running, so I figured I'd just take the tram to the Chateau then walk to the Cathedral and wait for the bus, or walk home. We stopped at the first tram stop to look at the map when a young man approached us. He asked us if we spoke English and if we were American. I ignored him, but Caitlin answered. He took of running, calling for friends, so we linked arms and started walking at a decent clip down the tram line to the next stop. Before we knew what was happening, he'd run back up and slapped Caitlin on the backside. I was at the point of getting ready to turn around and try to deal with things when another four guys came walking up from the other side. At first I was scared, thinking we were about to get in over our heads, but then I recognized two of them from my conversation club group earlier that night. They asked us if we wanted them to walk us to the next stop, and I about cried I was so glad they were there. We ended up walking and joking for three or four stops, then stopped to wait. I again looked at the map with Caitlin to figure out the best plan of attack, and realized that the next night bus wasn't for another 45 minutes or so. Two of the guys offered to both walk and drive me to my house. Caitlin as well, but she lives right off of the tram so declined. I thought really really long and hard about the best solution, and ended up letting the one drive me, as long as we gave a ride to the other. This turned out very well, they were really nice. They're both students at the computer science university in Nantes, and tomorrow I am going to ask Julie for their names so I can send them a card or something, as they dropped me off on my front step. Don't worry, today was MUCH less eventful. Had my last EU class, my second to last grammar and Atlantic world classes, came home took a nap, and am now studying grammar, and waiting for my mom to call for dinner. Derek is coming over after dinnerish to study, so hopefully he'll be able to help me understand the difference between a hypothese and conditional, and which tenses turn into which other tenses when a hypothese is used. Whew!
Incidentally. My favorite French word? vraisemblablement. It means probably or presumably, which isn't very exciting, but it sure is fun to say!
But at the same time. There are people here...my host family, Alison, Derek, and many many many others that I, as of right now, can't imagine not seeing on a daily basis. My host mom was just gone for three days at a funeral and I definitely missed her. And nine days from now, I say goodbye for good. And yes, of course we say we'll write and email, but for how long?
The reason I haven't blogged in so long, and I apologize for that, is that I am afraid if I start thinking about all of this too hard I'm going to fall to pieces! I have nine days left with these amazing people, and I've got finals on four of them. Friday is our grammar final, then that night we are going to our fancy birthday dinner for Alison, Caitlin and I. Saturday at least Alison, Caitlin, Christine and I are going to Atlantis, a giant shopping center outside of Nantes with a Jules Verne themed carousel. Sunday and Monday I'm studying, then Tuesday is my birthday and the rest of my finals! I've got both my Palestine and my Atlantic World (read HARDEST) finals, then Wednesday is European Union and practical Phonetics. Thursday I have both my phonetics lab and conversation finals, and then I'm done. Friday morning 8:00 I'm on the train to Paris, then the airplane back to the states.
Today we had a "going back" session with Madame Rouchet, basically her telling us its not going to be as easy as we think. She tried to reinforce that we HAVE changed while we've been here, a lot, even if we don't feel like it. When I'm not busy studying for finals, I will dive into this topic for all of you lovely people to read.
Since my visit to Normandy, life has been both eventful and monotonous. I turned in papers in three different classes (two of them I got back yesterday and I ROCKED THEM!!!) and I also had a midterm (which I definitely did NOT rock).
Last Tuesday I got hit really hard by the cold that's been going around and spent the day in bed with a pillow over my head. Friday we had a guided tour of the Musee Dobree, the city's museum. It was very, very interesting, our guide was wonderful and talked a lot about the 18th century. We were in a room with examples of jewelry when all of the sudden Aisha fell, literally right in front of me. Her pulse and pupils seemed okay, we took her insanely heavy backpack off of her and walked/carried her to a chair. The rest of the group moved on, but I ended up staying with her so she wasn't by herself. The most impressive thing about it is that she didn't stop speaking French, at all. I couldn't form a coherent sentence I was so shaken, and she was talking to the doctor in fluid French. I found out this morning that she was told by a doctor she went ot this weekend that she has a blood condition, if she gets too warm (it was hot in the museum and she was still wearing her coat) that her blood pressure drops, and well we saw the result.
Friday night I completely lost my voice, but went to the football (soccer) match with Derek and Alison and it was AMAZING. Go figure, I actually like soccer. The match was a ton of fun, even though I nobody could understand anything I said. Saturday I had planned to do a solo visit of the chateau and then to finish up my Christmas shopping. What I didn't realize is that Saturday morning came with pounding rain and winds of up to 115 km/hour. It was insane. I went to the castle, soaking wet, couldn't
speak at all still, and about halfway through started feeling really just awful. I kind of skimmed through the rest of the museum and then just went home.The rest of the weekend and most of this week has been getting ready for finals. Last night was the play that both Alison and Derek are in , so we went across town last night after conversation club to watch them. They did such a good job, especially with a director of whom I heard many a horror story. Caitlin and I left together, and since we couldn't exactly find my bus stop, we walked to the tram. It was after 11, so the night bus was running, so I figured I'd just take the tram to the Chateau then walk to the Cathedral and wait for the bus, or walk home. We stopped at the first tram stop to look at the map when a young man approached us. He asked us if we spoke English and if we were American. I ignored him, but Caitlin answered. He took of running, calling for friends, so we linked arms and started walking at a decent clip down the tram line to the next stop. Before we knew what was happening, he'd run back up and slapped Caitlin on the backside. I was at the point of getting ready to turn around and try to deal with things when another four guys came walking up from the other side. At first I was scared, thinking we were about to get in over our heads, but then I recognized two of them from my conversation club group earlier that night. They asked us if we wanted them to walk us to the next stop, and I about cried I was so glad they were there. We ended up walking and joking for three or four stops, then stopped to wait. I again looked at the map with Caitlin to figure out the best plan of attack, and realized that the next night bus wasn't for another 45 minutes or so. Two of the guys offered to both walk and drive me to my house. Caitlin as well, but she lives right off of the tram so declined. I thought really really long and hard about the best solution, and ended up letting the one drive me, as long as we gave a ride to the other. This turned out very well, they were really nice. They're both students at the computer science university in Nantes, and tomorrow I am going to ask Julie for their names so I can send them a card or something, as they dropped me off on my front step. Don't worry, today was MUCH less eventful. Had my last EU class, my second to last grammar and Atlantic world classes, came home took a nap, and am now studying grammar, and waiting for my mom to call for dinner. Derek is coming over after dinnerish to study, so hopefully he'll be able to help me understand the difference between a hypothese and conditional, and which tenses turn into which other tenses when a hypothese is used. Whew!
Incidentally. My favorite French word? vraisemblablement. It means probably or presumably, which isn't very exciting, but it sure is fun to say!
Saturday, December 1, 2007
Thanksgiving and Normandy: The Longest Weekend
My apologies once again for having not updated, but in my defense this last week and a half has been the absolute craziest since I got here.
It all started a week ago last Thursday with Thanksgiving. IES and the France-US group in Nantes sponsored a Thanksgiving dinner for us at a local restaurant. It was...an interesting meal? I sat with Kara, whose host mom is friends with my host mom, our respective host mothers, Julie, who is the TA and does my phonetics lab, and a few members of the France-US group. Julie's a lot of fun, it was nice to get to see her outside of a school context. The food was...an attempt at an American Thanksgiving, but only a half-hearted one. Nobody I've talked to afterwards was happy. The only good part of the meal was the dessert, pumpkin pie and apple tart. The problem was, the slices we got were about half of an inch at their widest point. After dinner, Derek played two songs and sang while he played a third, then Allie and John played the guitar and sang, then Aisha got up and sang a few songs. It as all very nice, though you could tell they were nervous. The whole thing started at 7:00, and my mom and I didn't get home until past midnight. It was exhausting!
Friday after classes Alison and I booked it down to the train station to figu
re out what was going on with the trains. If you saw in the news, Paris was practically shut down by the strikes, and it touched us out in Nantes too. We weren't sure which line to stand in, so we both hopped in different ones. Mine ended up being the right one, so she came over and stood with me. Our first train was cancelled, but there was a second train that was going to the same stop at nearly the same time, so he gave us tickets to that, just like that. He also "bravoed" us on our French! Yay! I grabbed a sandwich and we stood around a little bit. The platform came up, we walked over, got on the train no big deal. We arrived in Le Mans with plenty of time to catch our next train.
At Le Mans Alison and I decided to buy our tickets for the last leg of the trip, from Caen to Carentan, our final destination. The lady took our tickets as we had them and got everything figured out for us, so we bought tickets for that day and for the return trip.
We got out onto the platform, stood there for a good twenty minutes. Alison was very nervous about whether we were on the right platform or not. The loudspeaker came on all the sudden and said that instead of being on the platform we were facing, it was going to come into the one right behind us. Okay, no big deal, we just turned around. Then thirty seconds later it came back on and said that no, it was going to be back on the original platform. We grumbled jokingly about how mean it is to do that to non-native speakers, when the loudspeaker came on again. This time we didn't actually hear what got said, but there was a mass exodus by the people around us towards the exits. Alison panicked a bit, so I grabbed her and we followed the crowd. As they were leaving the station itself, we asked a woman what was going on. She said that the train had been canceled and they were taking us by bus instead. Cool. After a little bit of confusion as to which bus we were supposed to get on, Alison and I settled in, bus buddies once again. And then we started laughing, almost to the point of being hysterical.
We were rolling along, enjoying the countryside when Alison's cell phone rang. It was the owner of the bed and breakfast we stayed at, telling her (in French, of course) that the train from Caen to Carentan had been canceled, so instead of picking us up at Carentan he was just going to meet us at Caen. Wow, way way nice. So we got into the train station, met him, piled into the first real mini van looking thing I've seen in France, and drove for about 45 minutes an hour. Along the freeway in France there are signs that tell you what famous monuments or attractions or castles are at the next stop. So we're driving past signs for Omaha beach, Utah bea
ch, Point-du-Hoc, the American and British cemeteries. I'm geeking out a little bit. We pulled into the b&b, were greeted by the wife, and she showed us our room. The whole time she's telling us how its nothing special, and its this gorgeous little room!! It was so pretty! We tossed our stuff down on the beds, freshened up, then went downstairs. In the emails, they'd told us that they'd give us a small dinner Friday night. We get down there and they served us the biggest dinner I have had since coming to France. First we had little appetizers and apple liquor, then we moved to the table and had apple cidre, ham and cream, potatoes, salad, and bread, then for dessert a baked apple with mixed berries and cream. It was SO much food!! Needless to say after dinner Alison and I both crashed pretty hard, it had been a stressful day!
Our first stop of the day was Sainte-Mère-Église. If you've ever seen the movie The Longest Day, the scene that probably stands out the most in your mind is when one of the parachuter's parachutes gets caught on the steeple of the
church. This actually happened to a man named John Steele, who survived by playing dead. Today the town has a mannequin hanging from one of the corners of the church by a parachute, but according to our guide it isn't in the right spot. Also in the town is a museum dedicated to the U.S. 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions. Alison's grandfather was a member of the 101st, and is featured in the 
museum. We bopped in there, looked at his little exhibit, glanced around quick, watched a "moovie", then met back up with the guide outside. From there we drove to Utah Beach. It is actually one of the prettiest beaches I've ever been on. Lots of sand and shells....and pieces of metal left over from the invasion. Don't worry, I grabbed a couple. Our guide gave us a really good overview of the attack on Utah, why it was important and what the objectives of the various groups were. Then he gave us awhile to wander around. Utah is considered to be the least deadly of the
beaches that were attacked, but the reality is that it was only because the troops didn't land where they were supposed to. Its very easy to imagine what things might have looked like.
After Utah we drove to a little church whose name I forgot. Its not the normal stop when seeing the sites, but has its own unique story. Our guide was trying to impress upon us the gratitude of the French people, even today. This little itty bitty town, population of like sixty, has spent thousands upon thousands of dollars to put up a little memorial to the two soldiers I'm about to describe. Someone had put out flowers within the last few days, the grass was freshly cut, and the American and French flags were flying overhead. These people, for all of the destruction and death that we brought with us, are still today thankful for what the Allies did on D-Day and after.
In the little church two men...boys, set up a first aid post. They were both younger than I am, one had five months of medical training, the other a day. But between the two of them, they were able to keep over forty men alive....Americans, a French boy, and even German soldiers. You can still today
see blood stains on the pews. Over the last few years there has been a movement to help the town rebuild the church, which even by Normandy standards is old. Stained glass windows have been put in, commemorating either the saints the church is dedicated to or the soldiers who helped liberate the area. One was dedicated to the two soldiers, both of whom survived and are still alive today. The window was designed by an American, and when the mock-up was shown to one of the soliders by his daughter, he sat and cried. Our guide had the chance to talk with him, and he asked why he'd cried. The veteran said that when he comes to France, people hug him, kiss him, have parades, give him flowers. They recognize what happened, what he did. But in at home in the states, people ask what he did in the war and then stop listening. He had never had another American actually care, and to have someone not only recognize it but then go out of their way to create and pay for a stained glass window in the very church were it happened was a great honor.
From there we went over to Point-du-Hoc, which is well known for its assault by the
Rangers with their ladders borrowed from the London fire department. The entire cliff, because that's all it is, is covered in giant holes which were created by the bombs dropped leading up to and during the assault. There are still German bunkers all over it, and you can actually crawl around and see them. The most impressive thing, other than the wall which the rangers had to climb up, is the artillery storage bunker they blew up. Giant chunks of concrete which were the roof now sit 40 feet away. The unfortunate thing about the cliff is that it probably won't be around in two or three generations. The bombs that were dropped created fissures in the cliff, and weather has expanded those so the cliff is slowly falling to pieces.
From Point-du-Hoc we drove to Omaha Beach. I was expecting some big, lonely, obviously the site of thousands of deaths beach. But its not that, at all. There are houses, restaurants, shops, right underneath the cliff. In front of those is a road, then a little hill, then you're on the beach. It is easy to see though
why it was so deadly. It is just beach. There is nothing else, for ever. And the Germans were sitting on the top of a cliff looking down. When you step onto the sand, you can feel the change. There are certain places in this world that I believe very, very strongly, hold onto what has happened there, and if you go there, if you see those places and you know, you'll be able to feel it. Off the top of my head, the standing stones I've visited, the Statue of Liberty, etc. You see these places, these things, and the air around them is different. Maybe this sounds hokey, idk, but I truly believe it. Stepping onto that beach was like that for me. Our guide again did his wonderful draw in the sand explanation, then let us wander for a bit. I grabbed another rock, then we piled back into the car.
From there we drove to the American cemetery. They have in recent years opened a visitors center which also has some information about Alison's grandpa, so we decided to start there. We got in, and there was a guest book. Alison and I both went over to sign it, and I nearly fell over. The person two up from where I was signing was a woman from none other than Ankeny, Iowa. WHAT are the odds of that? I spent the rest of the time looking
for anyone that looked exceptionally American, and was with another woman (from Grinnel), and I think I found them but I didn't recognize them, so I didn't say anything. We walked down to the bit about Alison's grandpa, then decided that instead of spending our limited time going through the visitors center, we wanted to out to the cemetery. I have been to Arlington before, so I am familiar with the rows upon rows of white crosses, but it still is almost a punch to see that many all perfectly aligned. If anyone asks me again why I am a pacifist, why I don't believe that war is an appropriate answer, I'll tell them to visit that site. Could WW2 have been won without an attack? No, I don't believe so. But since then there have been so many, too many conflicts in which someones son has killed someone else's son. There are no good guys and bad guys. Everyone always believes their cause is the right one, and if they don't then they are following what their government has told them they should do. Why should anyone get killed because of that?
Sorry I'll get off of my anti-war rant and keep going with my story. On the hour, the bells held somewhere I couldn't see started chiming. They chimed the hour, then started playing "America the Beautiful". That, combined with the fact that technically I was standing on US soil for the first time in three months, and surrounded by the reflection of the immense loss of life that was the Normandy Invasion set me to tears. These boys, the men that were in the graves around me, they were my age. Our guide showed us lots of pictures of them, and there were quite a few, "oh, he was attractive" thoughts. Two of my very good friends from high school, Zach and Jeremy, are going into the military. I can't get to far into this thought process or I'm going to start crying again but I do not want them to end up being a white cross in a perfectly straight line in some country across the ocean for a cause that may or may not have been one that necessitated war. Sigh. Two interesting things about the cemetery: One, the chapel in the center is actually a multi-faith chapel, which I thought was really neat. Two, the cemetery itself overlooks Omaha beach, you can see it when you're standing there.
After the cemetery we drove back towards the bed and breakfast. We had one more stop to make, and it was the most important of all. We finally arrived at the church where Alison's grandpa had landed the morning of the invasion. The town has put a plaque on the wall of the church so you can see
where he landed. His story is remarkable. He landed WAY far away from his supposed drop zone, but was still determined to get to his target and carry out his job of taking out the German bridges. The problem was that there were a lot, a lot of Germans in between him and where he was supposed to be. No matter how he tried to get by them, he couldn't. He did whatever he could where he was, blowing up a power box, cutting phone lines, general sabotage. He was crawling through a hedgerow when he, unfortunately, literally fell into a pack of Germans. One of the Germans took his uniform and his dog tags, and he was shipped off towards a POW camp. He managed to escape, but was captured again. VERY long story short, he ended up in Russia, where he joined up with the Russian army to fight against the Germans. The German who had taken his dog tags had been killed, and it was assumed that the body was his. His family received the telegraph saying that he was missing in action, then killed. It wasn't until several years later when he met with a US ambassador in Russia that he was able to convince them, after forcing them to take his fingerprints, that he really was who he said he was. He made it home finally, and only passed away a few years ago, but not before visiting France again several times.
We said goodbye to our guide and went back to the B&B. The man then told us he'd arranged a meeting for us with the woman in whose home Alison's grandpa had hidden. We walked
over to their house, and met this couple. The woman had just been a little girl, but explained a lot to us about what it had all been like. Then she pulled out this big envelope filled with pictures, letters, and Christmas cards all from Alison's family over the last so many years. The fact that she'd kept all of that, plus how important she considered it all, made me choke up, much less Alison. They gave us some sort of alcohol and little crackers, then I took pictures of them and we went back to the b&b.
We sat with the couple and told them all about our day while eating appetizers and, luckily, orange juice. The Normands really like their alcohol. We went to dinner, which was white asparagus with cream, then something whose name I can only remember in French wrapped in salmon covered in cream, then something else I can't remember for dessert....sorry, its 12:15 Monday morning and I've been working on this blog all weekend, but darnit I am going to finish this!
Sunday we took the train from Carentan to Caen, and it was SO exciting we had a HARRY POTTER STYLE COMPARTMENT!!
We were both pretty excited about that. We got off the train, then proceeded to wander around the city trying to figure out their buses and trams, most of which were not working. Finally we made it out to the Memorial, a giant Rick Steve's recommended museum. It talks about the history of Europe from 1918 today, and is very, very interesting. It is VERY well done, and I'm kind of a museum snob. They had a specific exhibit on the Cold War, an exhibit about peace, and of course big sections on the World Wars. They also had two really interesting videos. We spent all day there, then figured out how to take the buses back to the train station. Luckily, all of our trains worked, and we made it back to Nantes in one piece!
I'll write about last week maybe tomorrow, but now I'm going to go to bed! Hope you're all enjoying the snow at home! I'm so jealous!!
It all started a week ago last Thursday with Thanksgiving. IES and the France-US group in Nantes sponsored a Thanksgiving dinner for us at a local restaurant. It was...an interesting meal? I sat with Kara, whose host mom is friends with my host mom, our respective host mothers, Julie, who is the TA and does my phonetics lab, and a few members of the France-US group. Julie's a lot of fun, it was nice to get to see her outside of a school context. The food was...an attempt at an American Thanksgiving, but only a half-hearted one. Nobody I've talked to afterwards was happy. The only good part of the meal was the dessert, pumpkin pie and apple tart. The problem was, the slices we got were about half of an inch at their widest point. After dinner, Derek played two songs and sang while he played a third, then Allie and John played the guitar and sang, then Aisha got up and sang a few songs. It as all very nice, though you could tell they were nervous. The whole thing started at 7:00, and my mom and I didn't get home until past midnight. It was exhausting!
Friday after classes Alison and I booked it down to the train station to figu
re out what was going on with the trains. If you saw in the news, Paris was practically shut down by the strikes, and it touched us out in Nantes too. We weren't sure which line to stand in, so we both hopped in different ones. Mine ended up being the right one, so she came over and stood with me. Our first train was cancelled, but there was a second train that was going to the same stop at nearly the same time, so he gave us tickets to that, just like that. He also "bravoed" us on our French! Yay! I grabbed a sandwich and we stood around a little bit. The platform came up, we walked over, got on the train no big deal. We arrived in Le Mans with plenty of time to catch our next train.At Le Mans Alison and I decided to buy our tickets for the last leg of the trip, from Caen to Carentan, our final destination. The lady took our tickets as we had them and got everything figured out for us, so we bought tickets for that day and for the return trip.
We got out onto the platform, stood there for a good twenty minutes. Alison was very nervous about whether we were on the right platform or not. The loudspeaker came on all the sudden and said that instead of being on the platform we were facing, it was going to come into the one right behind us. Okay, no big deal, we just turned around. Then thirty seconds later it came back on and said that no, it was going to be back on the original platform. We grumbled jokingly about how mean it is to do that to non-native speakers, when the loudspeaker came on again. This time we didn't actually hear what got said, but there was a mass exodus by the people around us towards the exits. Alison panicked a bit, so I grabbed her and we followed the crowd. As they were leaving the station itself, we asked a woman what was going on. She said that the train had been canceled and they were taking us by bus instead. Cool. After a little bit of confusion as to which bus we were supposed to get on, Alison and I settled in, bus buddies once again. And then we started laughing, almost to the point of being hysterical.
We were rolling along, enjoying the countryside when Alison's cell phone rang. It was the owner of the bed and breakfast we stayed at, telling her (in French, of course) that the train from Caen to Carentan had been canceled, so instead of picking us up at Carentan he was just going to meet us at Caen. Wow, way way nice. So we got into the train station, met him, piled into the first real mini van looking thing I've seen in France, and drove for about 45 minutes an hour. Along the freeway in France there are signs that tell you what famous monuments or attractions or castles are at the next stop. So we're driving past signs for Omaha beach, Utah bea
ch, Point-du-Hoc, the American and British cemeteries. I'm geeking out a little bit. We pulled into the b&b, were greeted by the wife, and she showed us our room. The whole time she's telling us how its nothing special, and its this gorgeous little room!! It was so pretty! We tossed our stuff down on the beds, freshened up, then went downstairs. In the emails, they'd told us that they'd give us a small dinner Friday night. We get down there and they served us the biggest dinner I have had since coming to France. First we had little appetizers and apple liquor, then we moved to the table and had apple cidre, ham and cream, potatoes, salad, and bread, then for dessert a baked apple with mixed berries and cream. It was SO much food!! Needless to say after dinner Alison and I both crashed pretty hard, it had been a stressful day!We woke up the next morning, got ready, and went downstairs for
breakfast. For breakfast they gave us giant croissants, four different kinds of homemade jam, hot chocolate, fruit, and homemade plain yogurt. I tried it, if you put sugar in it it was actually quite good. After breakfast we met up with the guide that Alison's dad had arranged, and we were off.
breakfast. For breakfast they gave us giant croissants, four different kinds of homemade jam, hot chocolate, fruit, and homemade plain yogurt. I tried it, if you put sugar in it it was actually quite good. After breakfast we met up with the guide that Alison's dad had arranged, and we were off.Our first stop of the day was Sainte-Mère-Église. If you've ever seen the movie The Longest Day, the scene that probably stands out the most in your mind is when one of the parachuter's parachutes gets caught on the steeple of the
church. This actually happened to a man named John Steele, who survived by playing dead. Today the town has a mannequin hanging from one of the corners of the church by a parachute, but according to our guide it isn't in the right spot. Also in the town is a museum dedicated to the U.S. 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions. Alison's grandfather was a member of the 101st, and is featured in the 
museum. We bopped in there, looked at his little exhibit, glanced around quick, watched a "moovie", then met back up with the guide outside. From there we drove to Utah Beach. It is actually one of the prettiest beaches I've ever been on. Lots of sand and shells....and pieces of metal left over from the invasion. Don't worry, I grabbed a couple. Our guide gave us a really good overview of the attack on Utah, why it was important and what the objectives of the various groups were. Then he gave us awhile to wander around. Utah is considered to be the least deadly of the
beaches that were attacked, but the reality is that it was only because the troops didn't land where they were supposed to. Its very easy to imagine what things might have looked like.After Utah we drove to a little church whose name I forgot. Its not the normal stop when seeing the sites, but has its own unique story. Our guide was trying to impress upon us the gratitude of the French people, even today. This little itty bitty town, population of like sixty, has spent thousands upon thousands of dollars to put up a little memorial to the two soldiers I'm about to describe. Someone had put out flowers within the last few days, the grass was freshly cut, and the American and French flags were flying overhead. These people, for all of the destruction and death that we brought with us, are still today thankful for what the Allies did on D-Day and after.
In the little church two men...boys, set up a first aid post. They were both younger than I am, one had five months of medical training, the other a day. But between the two of them, they were able to keep over forty men alive....Americans, a French boy, and even German soldiers. You can still today
see blood stains on the pews. Over the last few years there has been a movement to help the town rebuild the church, which even by Normandy standards is old. Stained glass windows have been put in, commemorating either the saints the church is dedicated to or the soldiers who helped liberate the area. One was dedicated to the two soldiers, both of whom survived and are still alive today. The window was designed by an American, and when the mock-up was shown to one of the soliders by his daughter, he sat and cried. Our guide had the chance to talk with him, and he asked why he'd cried. The veteran said that when he comes to France, people hug him, kiss him, have parades, give him flowers. They recognize what happened, what he did. But in at home in the states, people ask what he did in the war and then stop listening. He had never had another American actually care, and to have someone not only recognize it but then go out of their way to create and pay for a stained glass window in the very church were it happened was a great honor.From there we went over to Point-du-Hoc, which is well known for its assault by the
Rangers with their ladders borrowed from the London fire department. The entire cliff, because that's all it is, is covered in giant holes which were created by the bombs dropped leading up to and during the assault. There are still German bunkers all over it, and you can actually crawl around and see them. The most impressive thing, other than the wall which the rangers had to climb up, is the artillery storage bunker they blew up. Giant chunks of concrete which were the roof now sit 40 feet away. The unfortunate thing about the cliff is that it probably won't be around in two or three generations. The bombs that were dropped created fissures in the cliff, and weather has expanded those so the cliff is slowly falling to pieces.From Point-du-Hoc we drove to Omaha Beach. I was expecting some big, lonely, obviously the site of thousands of deaths beach. But its not that, at all. There are houses, restaurants, shops, right underneath the cliff. In front of those is a road, then a little hill, then you're on the beach. It is easy to see though
why it was so deadly. It is just beach. There is nothing else, for ever. And the Germans were sitting on the top of a cliff looking down. When you step onto the sand, you can feel the change. There are certain places in this world that I believe very, very strongly, hold onto what has happened there, and if you go there, if you see those places and you know, you'll be able to feel it. Off the top of my head, the standing stones I've visited, the Statue of Liberty, etc. You see these places, these things, and the air around them is different. Maybe this sounds hokey, idk, but I truly believe it. Stepping onto that beach was like that for me. Our guide again did his wonderful draw in the sand explanation, then let us wander for a bit. I grabbed another rock, then we piled back into the car.From there we drove to the American cemetery. They have in recent years opened a visitors center which also has some information about Alison's grandpa, so we decided to start there. We got in, and there was a guest book. Alison and I both went over to sign it, and I nearly fell over. The person two up from where I was signing was a woman from none other than Ankeny, Iowa. WHAT are the odds of that? I spent the rest of the time looking
for anyone that looked exceptionally American, and was with another woman (from Grinnel), and I think I found them but I didn't recognize them, so I didn't say anything. We walked down to the bit about Alison's grandpa, then decided that instead of spending our limited time going through the visitors center, we wanted to out to the cemetery. I have been to Arlington before, so I am familiar with the rows upon rows of white crosses, but it still is almost a punch to see that many all perfectly aligned. If anyone asks me again why I am a pacifist, why I don't believe that war is an appropriate answer, I'll tell them to visit that site. Could WW2 have been won without an attack? No, I don't believe so. But since then there have been so many, too many conflicts in which someones son has killed someone else's son. There are no good guys and bad guys. Everyone always believes their cause is the right one, and if they don't then they are following what their government has told them they should do. Why should anyone get killed because of that?Sorry I'll get off of my anti-war rant and keep going with my story. On the hour, the bells held somewhere I couldn't see started chiming. They chimed the hour, then started playing "America the Beautiful". That, combined with the fact that technically I was standing on US soil for the first time in three months, and surrounded by the reflection of the immense loss of life that was the Normandy Invasion set me to tears. These boys, the men that were in the graves around me, they were my age. Our guide showed us lots of pictures of them, and there were quite a few, "oh, he was attractive" thoughts. Two of my very good friends from high school, Zach and Jeremy, are going into the military. I can't get to far into this thought process or I'm going to start crying again but I do not want them to end up being a white cross in a perfectly straight line in some country across the ocean for a cause that may or may not have been one that necessitated war. Sigh. Two interesting things about the cemetery: One, the chapel in the center is actually a multi-faith chapel, which I thought was really neat. Two, the cemetery itself overlooks Omaha beach, you can see it when you're standing there.
After the cemetery we drove back towards the bed and breakfast. We had one more stop to make, and it was the most important of all. We finally arrived at the church where Alison's grandpa had landed the morning of the invasion. The town has put a plaque on the wall of the church so you can see
where he landed. His story is remarkable. He landed WAY far away from his supposed drop zone, but was still determined to get to his target and carry out his job of taking out the German bridges. The problem was that there were a lot, a lot of Germans in between him and where he was supposed to be. No matter how he tried to get by them, he couldn't. He did whatever he could where he was, blowing up a power box, cutting phone lines, general sabotage. He was crawling through a hedgerow when he, unfortunately, literally fell into a pack of Germans. One of the Germans took his uniform and his dog tags, and he was shipped off towards a POW camp. He managed to escape, but was captured again. VERY long story short, he ended up in Russia, where he joined up with the Russian army to fight against the Germans. The German who had taken his dog tags had been killed, and it was assumed that the body was his. His family received the telegraph saying that he was missing in action, then killed. It wasn't until several years later when he met with a US ambassador in Russia that he was able to convince them, after forcing them to take his fingerprints, that he really was who he said he was. He made it home finally, and only passed away a few years ago, but not before visiting France again several times.We said goodbye to our guide and went back to the B&B. The man then told us he'd arranged a meeting for us with the woman in whose home Alison's grandpa had hidden. We walked
over to their house, and met this couple. The woman had just been a little girl, but explained a lot to us about what it had all been like. Then she pulled out this big envelope filled with pictures, letters, and Christmas cards all from Alison's family over the last so many years. The fact that she'd kept all of that, plus how important she considered it all, made me choke up, much less Alison. They gave us some sort of alcohol and little crackers, then I took pictures of them and we went back to the b&b.We sat with the couple and told them all about our day while eating appetizers and, luckily, orange juice. The Normands really like their alcohol. We went to dinner, which was white asparagus with cream, then something whose name I can only remember in French wrapped in salmon covered in cream, then something else I can't remember for dessert....sorry, its 12:15 Monday morning and I've been working on this blog all weekend, but darnit I am going to finish this!
Sunday we took the train from Carentan to Caen, and it was SO exciting we had a HARRY POTTER STYLE COMPARTMENT!!
We were both pretty excited about that. We got off the train, then proceeded to wander around the city trying to figure out their buses and trams, most of which were not working. Finally we made it out to the Memorial, a giant Rick Steve's recommended museum. It talks about the history of Europe from 1918 today, and is very, very interesting. It is VERY well done, and I'm kind of a museum snob. They had a specific exhibit on the Cold War, an exhibit about peace, and of course big sections on the World Wars. They also had two really interesting videos. We spent all day there, then figured out how to take the buses back to the train station. Luckily, all of our trains worked, and we made it back to Nantes in one piece!I'll write about last week maybe tomorrow, but now I'm going to go to bed! Hope you're all enjoying the snow at home! I'm so jealous!!
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Catching Up
Apologies again for the lack of an update, but things have really slowed down this last two weeks and there hasn't really been anything exciting to write about! Let's see. Last week and this week are really just about trucking out. The only really big things right now are the upcoming papers that are due and the greves. If you've heard ANYTHING about France in the news, its about the strikes that are happening all over the country. Yesterday was the biggest day to date. Alison and I decided to go to the RU for lunch. When we got to Commerce, the center of town, we ran into what appeared to be a giant parade. It was all of the grevists, marching, singing, chanting, waving flags over a dozen city blocks, at least. I could hardly believe how many people there were, and we're only the 6th largest city in the country. I wish I could have seen some of them in Paris. Today things have died down a bit, the buses and trams are working again. The big problem now is still the trains. Service is inconsistent at best, and even those trains that do work are sometimes blockaded. I'm really worried about whether our train will get to Caen this weekend. This trip is the thing I have been looking forward to the most all semester, and if the trains don't work I will WALK to Normandy. To be a history major studying in France and to not see the D-Day sites would be near sacrilegious. I've also done a lot of math, and instead of going to Madrid I am now trying to get to either Brussels or Strasbourg. It would either be the weekend after this one or the following, because after that there's only one weekend left and then I am coming home! The trick is, before I get there I've got to get through next week, which is going to be a killer, then finals. Next Tuesday my Palestine paper is due, 2-3 pages on the effects of the Six-Day War on the Palestinians. Then Wednesday is my second grammar final, and I NEED to rock it. Thursday is when the evil killer Atlantic World paper is due....6-8 pages on "The French Presence in South America: Origins, Forms, and Destinies". The following Tuesday is my EU paper, 4-6 pages on Aristide Briand. These wouldn't be so bad...except they're all in French, and I still suck at writing French. Ugh!!
The bright spots on the horizon are tomorrow and this weekend. Tomorrow is our big "Thanksgiving" dinner through IES. All of the host families and their students are invited, I'm really excited to see how it will turn out. We're all getting dressed up, a couple of girls are singing, someone is going to play the guitar and Derek is doing something on the piano. I think it will be nice, at least until I have to get back to my papers! Speaking of which....
http://movies.aol.com/movie/the-other-boleyn-girl/26713/main
The bright spots on the horizon are tomorrow and this weekend. Tomorrow is our big "Thanksgiving" dinner through IES. All of the host families and their students are invited, I'm really excited to see how it will turn out. We're all getting dressed up, a couple of girls are singing, someone is going to play the guitar and Derek is doing something on the piano. I think it will be nice, at least until I have to get back to my papers! Speaking of which....
http://movies.aol.com/movie/the-other-boleyn-girl/26713/main
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
